Bowstringing

Rock climbing anatomy

Normally, the finger pulleys (A2, A3, A4) hold the flexor tendons tight against the finger bones. When enough pulleys tear — usually two or more — the tendon loses that support and lifts away from the bone in a visible curve when the finger bends. The shape looks like an archer’s bow, which is where the name comes from.

Bowstringing is a sign doctors look for on exam and on ultrasound. It’s most often tied to the highest injury grade, Schöffl Grade IV, where several pulleys have torn at once.[1] It’s also a dynamic sign — the gap between tendon and bone is often only visible on ultrasound while the finger is actively gripping, not at rest.[2]

Bowstringing describes what the tendon is doing mechanically. It does not, by itself, decide whether someone needs surgery — that decision also depends on how many pulleys are torn, ongoing grip demands, and time since the injury.

References

  1. Schöffl V, Hochholzer T, Winkelmann HP, Strecker W. Pulley injuries in rock climbers. Wilderness Environ Med. 2003. PMID: 12825883.
  2. Miro PH, vanSonnenberg E, Sabb DM, Schöffl V. Finger Flexor Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers. Wilderness Environ Med. 2021. PMID: 33966972.